The use of nonwoven materials was stronger than ever in 2020-2021 as the world population protected itself with the use of face masks, protective apparel and disinfectant wipes.  At the same time, investment in both nonwovens machinery and converting equipment surged with new lines for meltblown and spunbond nonwovens, and machinery for face masks and wipes spanning the globe. This was not the case in 2022.

As face mask use has declined and demand for applications like disinfectant wipes and protective apparel has normalized, nonwovens producers are seeing lower than usual utilization rates. Add to this economic pressures like inflation, rising raw material costs, supply chain issues and more, and most companies doing business in nonwovens are reporting challenging times. Despite this, the rate of innovation remains high in nonwovens and its related fields as new companies continue to find new uses for nonwovens and existing companies focus on offering more choices for their customers.

Weakening Demand

Between 2020 and 2021, the nonwovens industry saw an unprecedented surge in demand which was met with a never-before-seen rate of investment in new lines. While this investment impacted virtually all nonwovens types, none was as strong as meltblown nonwovens.

According to reports, the global market for meltblown nonwovens was been fundamentally reshaped by the experience of Covid-19 as demand for vital products like face masks and medical PPE saw meltblown sales rises from $809 million in 2019 to $1.68 billion in 2020 and growth continued into 2021. However, in 2022 demand for meltblown decreased as has demand for other nonwoven fabric types like spunbond and spunlace, which have been impacted by a weakened economy and lower demand in general for wipes, diapers and other absorbent products.

This has led to a stagnant period when it comes to new line investment. While it seemed like everyone was adding capacity—across multiple technologies—in 2020-2021, companies appear to be taking a wait-and-see approach to investment and they focus on issues like sustainability.

U.K. Retailers Ban Plastic-Based Wipes

In 2022, several U.K.-based retailers pledged to ban the sale of wipes containing plastics in an effort to curb non-biodegradable waste and solve sewage problems they feel are being caused by improper flushing, a move that wipes industry stakeholders fear could backfire. Instead, these associations feel wipes makers and retailers should focus on proper labeling and increasing consumer education to solve problems associated with wipes.

During the first quarter, Boots, Tesco and Aldi all announced plans to stop the sale of plastic-based wipes.

“Our customers are more aware than ever before of their impact on the environment, and they are actively looking to brands and retailers to help them lead more sustainable lives,” says Steve Ager, chief customer and commercial officer of Boots. “We removed plastics from our own brand and No7 wet wipe ranges in 2021 and now we are calling on other brands and retailers across the U.K. to follow suit in eliminating all plastic-based wet wipes. We all have a responsibility to protect our planet. By joining forces to inspire more positive action, we can collectively make a big difference.”

One of the biggest sellers of wet wipes in the U.K., Boots reformulated its own-brand ranges of wipes to be plastic-free last year. Tesco, meanwhile, cut sales of baby wipes containing plastic in March, two years after eliminating plastic from its store brand wipes.

“We have worked hard to remove plastic from our wipes as we know how long they take to break down,” says Tesco group quality directory Sarah Bradbury. “There is no need for wet wipes to contain plastic so from now on we will no longer stock them if they do.”

Some feel these efforts lead to pricing challenges and supply issues in the category.

Heidi Beatty, principal of Crown Abbey, a nonwovens and absorbent products industry consultant group based in the U.K., reports that formulators needs to weigh a number of factors including performance and cost when developing wipes.
“In some cases switching from plastic derived raw materials to bio-based feedstock has resulted in a negative impact on performance,” she says. “In the U.K., parents have expressed anger over reformulated baby wipes sold by Aldi, claiming the quality of the biodegradable wipe has changed and they need to use more product to get the job done.”

Baby wipes, in particular, are challenged with extremely tight margins, meaning a formulation change may be cost prohibitive.

While these moves have been lauded by wastewater agencies like Rider Drains in the U.K., wipes advocacy groups like EDANA, in Europe, and its North American counterpart, INDA, favor a focus on labeling, testing and consumer education. Studies by these group have found that only a small percentage of sewage problems can be attributed to flushable wipes. The two associations, along with their membership, have spent more than a decade working on developing flushability standards and labeling requirements for all sorts of wipes.

Wipes Suppliers Offer Greener Alternatives

In response to retailer mandates as well consumer demand and government legislation, suppliers to the wipes market have stepped up their efforts in developing alternatives to plastic wipes. In June, Suominen introduced Biolace Silva to the European markets. Biolace Silva is a nonwoven with exceptional cleaning power and a 50% lower carbon footprint than 100% viscose products. It is not only an environmentally conscious choice, but also for the consumer who values time and a premium feel on the skin.

Biolace Silva uses the natural power of pulp to provide exceptional cleaning performance and cloth-like look and feel, making it a well-balanced nonwoven supporting multiple end uses in the consumer and professional markets.

Biolace Silva works to reduce cleaning time and provide greater convenience by utilizing 150% more fiber surface area compared to standard viscose for difficult cleaning tasks. In addition to its great cleaning abilities, Biolace Silva is a premium wetlaid nonwoven with great strength and thickness. Due to its excellent stability and low 2:1 MD:CD ratio, it is perfect for easy converting and one-at-a-time dispensing.

Like Suominen, Berry Global has made a strong commitment to sustainability when it comes to its wipes-related investments. The nonwovens producer is currently underway with two investments—a proprietary Spinlace production line in North Carolina and a spunlace machine in the Netherlands. The Spinlace line, the company’s fourth, has the ability to be retrofitted to accommodate sustainable materials, and the spunlace investment will produce Berry’s new Evolve range, which is described as having sustainability at its core.

“Our team in Europe, working closely with our equipment suppliers, have done an amazing job during challenging times to commercialize this asset on time,” says Robert Weilminster, EVP & general manager for US & Canada Hygiene. “We are excited to see the launch of Berry’s latest spunlace offerings incorporating our proprietary technology in the marketplace in wipes, hygiene and other specialty applications.”

Output from these investments will primarily target the wipes market, which has seen tremendous growth across multiple categories in recent years.  While Berry has seen some variability in the disinfecting wipes market in various regions, the fundamentals in the market remain sound.

Additionally, Albaad emphasized sustainability in announcing its latest investment, a €50 million nonwovens line targeting biodegradable and flushable wipes. The line, the company says, will produce a sustainable fabric that will be made entirely from natural fibers, biodegradable, fully flushable and plastic-free. The market launch is scheduled for 2023 and is indicative of the company consistently continuing its sustainability strategy. When improperly disposed of, the tear-resistant wipes made of viscose- polyester fibers can be problematic and damaging. Furthermore, products that are not biodegradable and flushable are a burden on the environment.

The new product line is being developed using an innovative technology from the nonwovens industry. Albaad, as a leading European wet wipes manufacturer, aims to further optimize its capabilities and competencies in the development of sustainable products by using this technology. The new nonwoven will be manufactured at the company’s production site in Israel and shipped to all its sites worldwide. In the future, not only consumers will benefit from more choice when shopping, but the expansion of the product range will also create additional employment at Albaad.

Greener Wipes

On market shelves, companies are ramping up efforts to launch products that don’t contain plastics. This year, WaterWipes launched its new 100% biodegradable and plastic-free wipes, making it the first major U.S. baby brand to change all of its wipes to be 100% biodegradable, plant-based, plastic-free and compostable. WaterWipes baby wipes are even made using 100% green energy (wind). This change, which has also been rolled out globally, will mean WaterWipes will save the equivalent of 228 million plastic bottles and 3.28 Olympic-sized swimming pools of water a year and most importantly, be part of the movement to help reduce the amount of waste filling landfills.

“As the world has grown more environmentally conscious, so has WaterWipes,” says Lindsay Martin, vice president, WaterWipes North America. “With the U.S. launch of biodegradable and plastic-free wipes we’re excited to offer a product that is better for the planet, without compromising the quality of our wipes. This launch marks another step forward in WaterWipes’ commitment to sustainability.”

WaterWipes baby wipes will continue to be made with just two ingredients, 99.9% purified water and a drop of fruit extract. The new launch means parents and healthcare professionals no longer need to compromise between cleansing and helping protect their baby’s skin and choosing the better option for the environment.

Another product, Lysol Disinfecting Wipes Made From 100% Plant-Based Fibers, are formulated to kill 99.9% of viruses and bacteria on surfaces around the home. The plastic-free wipe is made from 100% plant-based fibers and comes in a recyclable canister. Like other Lysol disinfecting wipes, Lysol Disinfecting Wipes Made From 100% Plant-Based Fibers clean and disinfect most household hard, non-porous surfaces and kill the Covid-19 virus in 30 seconds.

Meanwhile, biom is an up-and-coming wipes brand targeting the disinfectants category. With biom, consumers can feel confident about the ingredients in their cleaning products, in addition to their impact on the environment.

While the pandemic has driven a 150% increase in the use of disinfectant wipes, consumers are unaware of the harm they cause. Aside from containing toxins, nearly 90% of wet wipes consist of non-recyclable plastic fibers that never break down, which contributes to billions of pounds of plastic waste each year. biom’s offerings are plastic-free, plant-based (made from 100% viscose), skin-friendly and biodegradable, containing all-natural scents derived from essential oils.

biom’s All-Purpose and Sanitizing Starter Kits are available from $39, which includes a refillable dispenser and two wipe refills. The first two refills are free with the purchase of a subscription.

Flushability Fight Forges Forward

In the U.S., a bipartisan effort is underway in Congress to establish federal requirements for the disposal of wipes to carry prominent “Do Not Flush” labeling on packaging of non-flushable wipes. This legislation has been applauded both by U.S.-based INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, and CASA, the California Association of Sanitation Agencies and comes after over a decade of efforts on the part of nonwovens industry stakeholders to ensure proper testing and labeling for wipes products.

“CASA applauds Senator Merkley and Senator Collins for introducing the WIPPES Act. This bipartisan legislation addresses the flushing of non-flushable wipes that has plagued the clean water sector for decades and protects the billions of dollars ratepayers have invested to clean up our waterways and protect public health,” says CASA executive director Adam Link. “Lacking proper disposal instructions, consumers unwittingly end up flushing these single-use, synthetic wipes that can clog pipes, pumps and treatment equipment. Establishing common sense ‘Do Not Flush’ labeling practices addresses this problem at the source. CASA also appreciates the bill’s grants program to support education and outreach activities that expand ratepayer awareness of the ‘Do Not Flush’ label and ensure these wipes do not make their way into our wastewater systems.”

Stakeholders also fear that consumers could confuse plastic free with flushable, which is not always correct, leading to increased instances of improper flushing.

“It is likely for consumers to associate ‘plastic free’ with ‘flushable,’ which is not always correct. Confusion might lead to increase the occurrence of blockages in the sewer, which would be counterproductive,” Stevens adds.

On the state level, California enacted its Proper Labeling of Wet Wipes law (Assembly Bill 818), through the leadership of Assembly Member Bloom, establishing requirements for the proper labeling of disposable wipes with the “Do Not Flush” symbol and support of a consumer education campaign. In accordance with the law, the Responsible Flushing Alliance (RFA) officially launched its #FlushSmart campaign, which includes a series of educational materials, in both English and Spanish, and resources for consumers, educators, wastewater agencies and other stakeholder groups regarding what should not be flushed down the toilet.

“At times of drought and lower flows in our state, maintaining proper flushing habits is paramount to helping protect our critical infrastructure,” says Bloom. “These efforts, as well as the debut of the ‘Do Not Flush’ symbol on product packaging, will help protect our communities’ precious groundwater and other fresh water sources from potential contamination.”

Washington, Oregon and Illinois also have similar labeling laws for non-flushable wipes. This ensures that consumers across the country will have the opportunity to learn about what not to flush by seeing the “Do Not Flush” symbol prominently featured on non-flushable wipes packaging.

“We are pioneering a first-of-its kind educational initiative to fix a very simple but serious issue in the state of California and other parts of the country,” says RFA president Lara Wyss. “Nearly 60% of consumers indicated in a 2021 survey that they have disposed of something non-flushable in the toilet during the previous year. That is why ‘Flush Smart Day,’ and the #FlushSmart campaign, is so critical in helping to reverse this negative trend impacting our wastewater systems.”

Reusable Hygiene Advances

Efforts to make femcare more sustainable have also resulted in an entirely new subcategory—reusable pants—not just from traditional hygiene companies but from traditional apparel companies as well.

New technologies—both woven and nonwoven—as well as innovation in absorbent fibers have allowed these reusable products to be as effective in preventing leaks and odors as disposables with a much lower environmental impact. One disposable pad takes between 500-800 years to biodegrade and each year 20 billion pads and tampons are adding to North American landfills. Meanwhile, these reusable garments, when cared for properly, can last up to two years or longer.

In 2022, major hygiene suppliers showed their faith in the reusable hygiene category through acquisition. In July, Essity acquired not just one but two reusable hygiene companies—Modibodi in Australia and Knix in North America. Together the two brands, which reported double-digit annual growth, add about $140 million to Essity’s top line growth in the category.

 “In both these categories (feminine hygiene and bladder leakage), leakproof is quickly growing as a subsegment, replacing liners, pads, disposable pads and the typical products,” says Magnus Groth, CEO of Essity. “Leakproof apparel is more sustainable than disposable products. Typically, the CO2 impact is about half of using disposables and these products generate about 75% less waste using reusable products.”

Companies like Modibodi and Knix have helped make reusable hygiene the fastest growing segment in the category, increasing about 20% per year. Experts expect this growth to continue during the next five years when it will represent 15%—compared to 7% today—of the overall category. This growth will not only be fueled by concerns over sustainability and performance improvements but also by increased awareness and availability of these products.

“Period and leakproof underwear has the capacity to drive a real positive impact on our environment, and significantly improve the quality of life and period dignity of millions of people around the world,” says Kristy Chong, founder and CEO of Modibodi. “Nobody should miss out on doing the things they love because of leaks, whether it be periods, bladder leaks, breast leaks or sweat. Reusable apparel can manage life’s leaks because it’s better for your body…and better for the planet.”

Kimberly-Clark has also bet on the success of the category. In February, the company purchased a majority stake in Thinx, two years after buying a minority stake in the company.

Thinx was an early entrant to the reusable hygiene category when it launched nine years ago and continues to expand its product offerings in the category.

“Our investment in the success of Thinx represents a compelling strategic fit as we build our portfolio of period and light bladder leakage solutions, and we are excited for the opportunity this expanded partnership will provide to both Kimberly-Clark and Thinx,” says Russ Torres, group president of Kimberly-Clark’s North American consumer business. “The investment in Thinx paves the road for collaboration and allows us to work together to drive category growth with our retail partners while continuing to support Thinx in direct-to-consumer channels.”

Reusable Hygiene Uses Nonwovens

While some might feel that reusables pose a challenge to nonwovens producers supplying to the absorbent markets, new advancements in nonwovens technologies are actually allowing them to be used in these products.

Kelheim Fibres has been working with partners in the absorbent products market to develop reusable products based on nonwovens technology. In partnership with a German design team, Kelheim recently developed an absorbent core—for a reusable baby diaper system—that uses a combination of needlepunch and thermal bonded technologies and its Galaxy trilobal viscose fibers. The needlepunch gives both fibers types more space to absorb liquid and higher storage volumes, while thermal bonding offers bulkiness and increases strength, allowing the nonwoven to be fully washable. Additionally, in the absorbent core, Kelheim’s segmented hollow fiber Bramante stores liquid not only between but also within the fibers. Bramante can absorb up to 260% of its own weight. The core also contains polylactic acid (PLA).

Additionally, superabsorbent fiber specialist Technical Absorbents operates a needlepunch line that can incorporate absorbency right into the fabric. The U.K.-based company has also developed washable absorbent needlefelt fabrics for use in the reusable hygiene space.

“SAF likes to absorb and retain fluid – similar to technologies used within nappies – and so the resulting fabrics provide that initial capture and containment which is extremely important for wearer confidence and security,” says John Rose, product development director. “Our soft, conformable washable fabrics have been engineered in such a way that means when they are integrated within a final product construction, the SAF is protected during the wash/dry cycle. We work with customers to advise them how best to use our fabrics—this is all part of the product development/initial trial process.”

The main challenge, Rose adds, is balancing performance with the fabric’s drying time in the laundry process. The company has already brought to market a new generation of fabrics with improved drying while maintaining a class-leading level of absorbency, security and discretion for the user.

Entrepreneurs in Hygiene Gain Steam

During the past decade, the absorbent hygiene market has welcome many new startup companies providing consumers with more choices in the category. As many of these brands have thrived, some have more recently gained the interest of private equity investors, helping them boost their profile in the category.

In May, Rael, a holistic personal care brand focused on clean period care, intimate care, and skincare, announced the close of a $35 million Series B investment. This investment represents the largest amount raised in the U.S. feminine care category to date and brings Rael’s total funding to $59 million since the company was founded in 2017. The round was led by Colopl Next, the venture capital arm of Colopl, and Signite Partners, the corporate venture capital firm of Shinsegae Group, one of the largest conglomerates in Korea. The funding was also joined by Aarden Partners, ST Capital, and existing investors including Mirae Asset and Unilever Ventures.

With this investment, Rael plans to continue its product innovation led by its development team based in South Korea, expand its 360-degree approach to women’s wellness, accelerate growth at retail by expanding partnerships and investing in brand and trade marketing, and advancing its global expansion.

New brands like Rael entered the hygiene market by taking a cue from The Honest Company, which introduced a unique brand of baby diapers online in 2012, and saw a path to enter the market by partnering with contract manufacturers to develop products and launch online through direct-to-consumer channels. A decade later, the proliferation of new products continues to change the market as hygiene startups have chipped away at the retail space of some of the major brands in period care and baby diapers.

Additionally, Planera, a London, U.K.-based personal hygiene startup that created a flushable and biodegradable sanitary pad, recently received an investment from RH Capital, a leading women’s health venture capital fund.  

On the baby care side, Coterie received $23.8 million during its latest round of funding, led by Ben Bryce at Align Ventures. This brings the group’s total funding to $34 million including investments from Beliade, Willow Growth, River Park Ventures and model Ashley Graham. The funding will enable Coterie to not only double down on its mission, but also expand into new realms.

Nike Chooses Needlepunch
Nike Forward, the athletic gear company’s most significant apparel innovation since Dri-Fit, is moving away from traditional knit and woven processes and toward nonwovens. Nike Forward revolutionizes apparel creation by hacking punch-needle machines to make premium, sustainability-minded product.

“Nike Forward feels different because it is different. It is not a traditional knit or woven, but a completely new material that drastically reduces its carbon footprint,” says Carmen Zolman, VP Innovation Apparel Design, Nike, Inc.

Over five years of research went into the development of Nike Forward. The innovation, shifting from knit or woven, simplifies the process of material fabrication by reducing steps. Rather than follow a multistage (spin yarn, knit, cut, sew and more) creation cycle, Nike Forward turns fiber directly to textile through needlepunch. Fewer steps means less energy consumption, contributing to an average of 75% reduction in the carbon footprint for this first generation material compared to traditional knit fleece. Nike Forward material also has a lighter density than traditional knit fleece, which is crucial to reaching 75% carbon reduction, and the finished product is comprised of 70% recycled content by weight.

Nike Forward is the latest sustainability-minded innovation to join the ranks of Nike Air, Flyknit, Flyleather, Space Hippie and Next Nature. The platform is purpose-built and created for future circularity—the first iteration of Nike Forward products are made without zippers, aglets or extra trims, making it easier for the garments to be recycled.

Nike Forward can be made with a diverse range of layers, including industrial and post-consumer waste, and can be precisely tuned for athlete needs. It is a testament to audacious imagination and hands-on experimentation with the most advanced proprietary sport science, digital tools and manufacturing techniques. Not only does it solve problems for athletes, Nike Forward continues Nike’s legacy of setting new aesthetic and performance standards for sport.

“We believe this platform has the potential to reset the way we think about material and apparel. This is the biggest Nike apparel innovation since Dri-Fit 30 years ago and has huge potential to transform the industry in the way that Air and Flyknit did for Nike footwear,” says Aaron Heiser, VP Global Apparel Product Merchandising, Nike, Inc.

Growth Continues for Nonwovens

According to a report published jointly by EDANA and INDA, there will be strong market demand for nonwoven materials through the next five years. The report is titled Global Nonwoven Markets Report, A Comprehensive Survey and Outlook, 2020–2025.

This report provides in-depth information and analysis of the global nonwoven macro drivers, supply and demand and regional trade. Among the highlights of the report: In the historical period (2010–2020) production increased 6.2% annually, led by growth in the spunlaid processes and drylaid hydroentanglement.

China led the growth in production, adding an additional 4.7 million tons from the end of 2010 through to the end of 2020, representing a 11.5% annual growth rate.

Across the nonwoven end use segments, the wipes, filtration and medical segments expanded at the fastest rates, given the industry’s rapid response to provide materials that keep the surfaces we touch clean, protect the air we breathe, and provide a barrier to keep our bodies safe.